The Lion Dance

I went to kabuki and might as well be walking on clouds today. Oh, how gorgeous it was!

I started out the day dressed in black, striding down the lane to go to the Toji Flea Market. I was stopped by an old lady and told that I looked “very cool”—I blushed and thanked her.

At Toji, the market was bustling. This may be one of the best Toji markets because it’s right before the giant holiday Boys’ Day and thus there are a lot of carp-themed things going around. I even saw a goldfish stand! I met up with Tilly there and we headed to the theater.

After the flea market, I changed into the haori that Okaasan Prime gave me. It fit me like a dream and really suited me, I thought. And I wasn’t the only one. While waiting in line, about six old ladies descended upon me, making me turn around and show them the haori. They complimented me greatly and I turned the color of my haori.

Look at all the people--this is only a tenth or less!

The seats were first come, first serve, so Tilly and I managed to get some of the most excellent seats—right next to the hanamichi (the long strip of stage that goes through the audience). This meant that I got an eye level look at costume knees when they passed me by.

Looking down the hanamichi

I liked the decoration on the lights

The performance was amazing. It is called Renjishi and is usually preformed by a father-son team. It details the dance of a father and son lion. The first act has costuming of just a scarf with a lion head and bells on it, but the final act is when both the father and the son are decked out in full kabuki regalia—you know, that giant bushy wig that could be a wig, could be an unconscious animal.

The "son lion" has bright red hair

"Son Lion" and "Father Lion"

 

And then, they did the hair tossing! Words cannot describe how awed I was by this. The kid was maybe eight years old and here he was looking as every bit professional as his father and not a single error was made! 

By the end, Tilly and I were just clasping each other in raptures of delight. It was perfect. It gave me a high similar to my museum sprees and I was walking on air.

Here's what seems to be a full version of the dance, though with an older son playing the "son lion" part.

 Afterward we and a few other friends walked around the Gion-shijo shopping district before I had to head home.

Tokyo - Harajuku

Today we started out pretty late, so we only went to Harajuku—fashion central of Tokyo and, some may say, Japan!

Me and my Suica card for easy passage through the subway systems

I was stoked—Harajuku is where the iconic fashion of Tokyo stands. I was recommended some places by a super nice girl in the hostel (this is why if you travel, you should stay in a hostel—you will save on food by cooking and there will always be more experienced travelers to give you advice!). The streets were packed with people—especially the most famous street—Takeshida-dori!

Confronted by plaid mannikins, I reacted promptly--I took a picture!

My favorite shop had to be a very small shop called “Closet Child” which had second-hand brand clothing from famous Japanese designers—particularly focusing on Gothic and Sweet Lolita clothing. Usually hundreds of dollars for a single petticoat, I managed to snag a lovely skirt for a mere 2,200 yen. What a deal!

Takeshida-dori

Gothic and Sweet Loli spotted!

Lunch was pretty great as well. While somewhat expensive, the potions were larger than the normal Japanese fare. I had a delicious chicken curry.

Then I had a fun experience—I saw three girls in furisode and hakama (the traditional graduation outfit) and asked them, in my passable Japanese, if I could take a picture. We started to chat—it turns out that the one I’m closest to is actually from Hirakata! Wow, what a small world.

After we returned, Paulina and I made omurice. Then I age the namagashi wagashi I bought in Tsukiji—they were soooooo delicious.

Omurice minus the omu

Tokyo - Tsukiji, the Imperial Palace, and Shibuya

Today we woke up relatively early and headed for Tsukiji—the biggest fish market in the world! We did not make it to see the actual auction (that would involve arriving at 4am), but we had fun nonetheless.

One thing I enjoy worldwide is the helter-skelter pattern and downright liveliness of outdoor markets. In America, you can find this type of atmosphere in ethnic districts, giant flea markets, and the occasional garage/estate sale.

 

 

Tsukiji is excellent at combining all of this into something resembling a basic pattern—bless the Japanese (and their ever-constant organizational skills).

Left to Right: Paulina, Me, Keifer, Mari

Surprisingly, there was distinct lack of fishy smells—perhaps they would have been there if we had gotten there earlier?

The streets of the outer market were bustling. The first place we stopped by was a wagashi (traditional Japanese sweet) shop. Look at how cute they are!!

 

Paulina and I, both tea fanatics, were seduced by a green tea shop with free samples. Oh my, they were heavenly. Paulina didn’t have her camera to catch my expression, but I’m pretty sure it was the same as hers.

 

We wandered around some more and watched in amazement as the lines to the (pretty expensive) sushi shops tripled in under five minutes.

Unfortunately, we had an appointment later in the afternoon, so we couldn’t wait in line—so we found a kaitenzushi shop—cheaper, but still delicious! I decided to splurge—I bought some 中どろ—somewhat fatty tuna for a whopping ￥418!

My delicious 中どろ

And then there was a giant fish head. We didn't eat that for breakfast, though.

After our sushi breakfast we headed over to the Tokyo Imperial Palace for a tour—only a certain amount of people are let in and you have to apply online in advance! Unfortunately, it was pretty dry. We wer not allowed to enter any buildings and the tour took us about an hour. I had heard that the East Gardens were nice to be in, but it wasn’t blooming season yet and they were closed when we visited. Oh well, I can understand why.

But before that, we saw a swan

 

From the Tokyo Imperial Place, our stomachs decided to make their selves known, so we headed to Sweets Paradise in Shibuya.

So. Many. People. (in front of Shibuya Station)

But what is Sweets Paradise? you wonder, and why would you got there—it sounds expensive.

Sweets Paradise is an all-you-can-eat cake shop. The limit is one hour, the price is about ￥1500 and the desserts are endless! From ice cream sundaes to cakes to a chocolate fountain to mochi—Sweets Paradise has it all. I think the themeing and lighting is pretty cute as well!

Only part of the cake bar

Make your own mochi + toppings!

 After eating our fill, we wandered around Shibuya in the ever-darkening twilight—here are some photos of the night lights!

We also went to a giant glass Starbucks where we watched the giant sea of people enter Shibuya from the subway/train lines.

Heading back, we stopped by the Hachiko statue. Who is Hachiko? He’s a famous dog in Japan who would accompany his master to the train station and wait for him every day. One day, his master died at work, but the faithful dog returned every day to the station until he died as well. To honor this dog’s loyalty, a statue was made.

Then we headed back to the hostel, where I spend the rest of the night talking to various other people staying in the hostel as well. Everyone’s so friendly and nice!

The hostel's sign

Tomorrow is Harajuku, museums and hopefully a shrine or two!